I dont know why I do it to myself; expectation is the first step on the path to disappointment. When you're enticed by the prospect of having a ride on a big one you can't blame me for getting excited. But alas when the monster was revealed and even once I sat on it, it felt no bigger than a normal sized one....story of my life...big boasts and small delivery. What? No! ...I didn't mean...I'm talking about the new double decker Airbus 380 aeroplane....you smutty people!! The service from Singapore Airlines is brilliant but the plane just looks like a chubby stumpy brother of the more elegant athletic jumbo, never mind eh.
After 20 hours of travelling we arrive in Siem Reap Cambodia, the gateway to the fantastic Angkor Wat temple and a myriad of other beautiful temples that dot the area – some knocking on 1100 years old. I'll let the photos do all the talking here.....I have to say my favourite, was .....Preah Khan.
Siem Reap is a town that has grown to accomodate the hundreds of thousands of tourists from around the world who stopover here to take a gander at the ancient monuments right on its' doorstep. This in itself could be annoying – think Bangkok's backpacker areas or Ibiza's bar-laden streets. But somehow there is a charm to Siem Reap that glosses over the potentiality of backpacker -hell. One has to say that the credit for this must go to the Cambodian people – they are charm itself, full of smiles and welcomes that goes past the obvious need for foreign currency. Whilst you are almost constantly asked to buy postcards or ride in a tuk-tuk, their friendly affable character is inspirational given that this is one of the poorest countries in the world. People are streetwise though, one unpleasant incident occured outside Angkor Wat – opposite the entrance is a huge parking/pickup area where loads of street sellers are gathering offering everything form cold water - “ its hot inside Mister” to bangles, hats, books and maps. Whilst we declined their offers, one young entrepreuner tugged at my sleave asked my name and said “ My name's Spidergirl, buy some water when you come out?” I agreed, she was such a charmer. Unfortunately when we were about to leave we were surrounded by loads of kids all calling themselves Spidergirl – not to be out done one little boy said “ You know Spidergirl, I'm her brother Spiderboy” - Ad and I where separated and unknownst to me bought some water and a coke from another Spidergirl – the mood got a bit ugly - and the girl I was with finished our non-transaction by screaming at me “ fucking men you're all the fucking same” - I felt mean, even though the water was at an extortinate price – I thought about protesting that my reputation on equality issues are impeccable but somehow this didn't seem appropriate – I wish we had handled things differently – we can afford to be ripped off for a bottle of water.
I don't think I have ever tried Cambodian cuisine before, but boy what a surprise!! Absolutely fucking delicious – every meal. We spurned backpacker non-hell restaurants in the main (apart from a couple of lunches one of which had Adrian literally with tears rolling down both cheeks after eating a tiney weeny slither of red chillie- oh how I laughed at his pain!!) and chose to eat at an outdoor food market type place, bang in the centre -we're talking plastic garden furniture tables and chairs and meals prepared on tressle tables...or walls, whichever is convenient. Despite its humble surrondings – restaurant inspectors at home would have a coronary – the food was superb. Lok Lak the first night, pork (or beef or chicken) in a gorgeous slightly peppery and spicey gravy/sauce; Khmer BBQ the second – where you basically cook you're own food on a metal cooking pot that probably the best way to descibe is shaped like a Mexican sombrero heated by burning coals underneath. In the rim of the 'hat' hot water is sploshed where the vegetables are cooked ( carrots, cabbage and a spinach like veg called Morning Glory – wheyhey!!) and on the top of the 'hat' you lay the meat to BBQ. Simple but absolutely mouth wateringly yummy. Needless to say we made a right pigs ear of cooking the meat but it tasted bloody good , even the piece of fish that we took a bite into only to realise it wasn't fish but a lump of pork fat (and two days later dawned us was probably supposed to oil the pan) tasted divine. Then on the last night probably my favourite, a dish of stir fried squid with Thai basil, onion tomato and chillies – burn your mouth off hot but plate lickingly scrumptious.
On our tuk-tuk chaffeured tour around the temples, some quite a distance from the town, we rode through the Cambodian countryside – miles upon miles of vibrant lime green paddy fields stretch for as far as the eye can see in all directions, (it really is humbling to think that the millions of rice seedlings have all been sown individually by hand – I bet they have a big party when thats done each year) interpersed with colosal palm trees and the odd shack. The countryside is beautiful, the peoples' living conditions are extremely poor, but there is something completely enchanting about this country. For a people that have lived through such a horrific recent past to have such a generosity of spirit is truely inspiring. I loved our little slice of Cambodia, it has definitely shot up the list of places to return to and do properly, if Siem Reap is anything to go by it will be a fantastic experience.
Note to oneself : there are so many amputee victims of landmines, on the strrets, that are reduced to begging to survive I must investigate appropriate charities when we get home.
You look good in pink, Metz
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