The North East (Day Two)

Up early in the morning to a breakfast of coffee and banana fritters. The weather is not so good this morning, a bit grey and overcast, but it's pleasantly warm and made up for by the beautiful location that we awaken in. It's so peaceful I could eat it.

We take an hour or so boat ride around Ba Be Lake drinking in the isolated halcyon surroundings followed by a little hike into one of the jungle clad hills. Unfortunately there is not much wildlife around these parts these days but we encounter a stick insect, lots of flutter bys and an enormous black and yellow spider with 3 legs missing – I've not seen a stick insect before, they are rather cute!

Back in the car for a long drive to our next stopover, Cao Bang. The scenery is a little 'samey' – forest and jungle – but its an agreeable enough journey and has to be done to get us in a near enough position to the Chinese border for the highlight of tomorrow's trip, the Ban Gioc waterfall.

After a good dinner in a local restaurant with our guide and driver, washed down by the obligatory rice wine, Ad and I take a wander around the town. Cao Bang itself is off the beaten track and there are no other foreigners in sight. We find a local bar in a lovely tree-lined street, and through sheer boredom of constantly drinking beer, after one bottle decide to treat ourselves to a vodka or two.

Unfortunately the lady doesn't speak any English and so far our Vietnamese only runs to hello – Xin chào – and thank you – Cám ơn, so trying to order a vodka and 7 up is proving a little difficult. We eventually make ourselves understood but she brings the whole bottle of voddie to our table...we're not quite sure whether we are expected to buy the whole bottle or not...she has no idea what we are saying and never do we her...after some confusion during which the seal on the bottle is broken it's explained to us by a fellow drinker that we have to buy the bottle now it's been opened ...expecting that we are about to be ripped off we tentatively enquire how much that it going to be ….80,000 dong we are told!!!! ….£2.60. Thank you. Pissed again.